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Historic Canyon carrier isn't known as easy ride

More than 10,000 people a year use the Bright Angel Trail for what it was made for ­ mules, that is. Recently I became one of them.

The enlightening fact that on the trail the mules rule was just one of a number of colorful facts presented by Livery Manager Casey Murph who provided a pre-ride orientation and reality check ­ with a chance to back out for a full refund ­ to groups there for both the Phantom Ranch two day trip and the day ride to Plateau Point, the one I was there to take.

One thing he wanted to get straight right away ­ to go by mule is to choose riding, not avoid hiking.

"Riders should keep in mind that it's rigorous. If they are looking for an easy way into the Canyon, this isn't it," he said. "If you want that, go see the IMAX movie.

Murph should know. He'd been a mule wrangler up and down the trail for 15 years before becoming assistant livery manager for two years and manager in February of 2006. The legacy he keeps alive with his entertaining delivery poking a little fun at the expense of us tenderfoots is even older, going back more than a century. Long before Gore-tex boots and titanium hiking poles began to leave their mark, the Bright Angel Trail was laid down for mules, first for mining and then for tourism. Today, says Murph, he and his colleagues are glad to let hikers use their trail as long as they recognize that the mules have right-of-way.

Grand Canyon mule rides have an impressive record of no tourist fatalities in over a century of operation. Murph said that's no accident.

"We attribute our safety record to three things," he said. "First of all, the quality of the mules, then long training. And we have guides doing their job to take care and prevent accidents."

Xanterra's mules come from a broker in Tennessee named Rufus Reese who know the needs of the operation here and chooses accordingly.

"We rely on Rufus to find the kind of mules we need," Murph said. "He will ride the mules, work with them, make sure they're kind we can get along with. If they end up not working out, he guarantees to take them back."

Big mules of between 1,200 and 1,500 pounds are needed for the rigors of the trail.

"You want to stay away from mules that are too light boned," said Murph. "You need big, stout mules to carry a 200-pound rider and a 75-pound saddle every day."

Some mules come with names; a lot get named after ex-girlfriends, Murph noted. Once they arrive, they begin their training with exacting standards before they are ever allowed to carry a visitor.

"There's no set time for training. It can take a few months, up to several years and some are never trusted with riders," Murph said.

Murph said the mules are good in the Canyon, in part because of their own natural selfishness that distinguishes their lineage from their dad, who was not the horse in the horse-jackass combination.

"You can train a horse to run off a cliff," he said. "A rider can't accidentally get a mule to do it. They are less likely to think that what you want is in their best interest."

The wranglers are also carefully chosen, and often recruited as was Filip Zalesky, our guide on the Plateau Point trip. He came to the Canyon in May after being offered a job while here as a customer. Zalesky, like all wranglers that Murph hires, came with his own equipment.

"Good wranglers are picky about their equipment," he explained.

We were given one useful piece of equipment ­ the crop, or mule motivator as Murph more gently phrased it ­ and told how to use it with authority. The mules, he noted, were not particularly eager to ferry us into the Canyon and back and might be tempted to slack. The most important safety measure was for the rider to keep the nose of their animal close to the tail of the one in front of them. Otherwise, the gaps could invite alarming (to mules) intrusions by hikers or wildlife.

Thus armed, riders were introduced to their animals and helped aboard. Fortunately, I was given a fellow named Chester who was a true gentleman. I didn't have to apply the crop with the recommended vigor; most of the time, he responded to the crop on the mule in front of us.

It took about two and a half hours to descend past the icy top of the Bright Angel Trail to 80-degree temperatures at Indian Gardens and Plateau Point,

It took mere minutes for me to realize the ride was anything but terrifying, despite what I'd heard about the extra sense of height atop a mule and the fact that they tend to favor the outer edge of the trail. I found I trusted Chester's mulish instincts toward self-preservation and left the footing to him.

I also soon discovered that discomfort aboard a mule doesn't necessarily come in the places you would naturally expect. Yes a softer saddle would have been more pleasant, but it was really my knees that made the most complaint and only for that day. The ride was strenuous but not too much so for someone in average shape.

At this time of year, mule rides are in less demand and easier to book. Locals can also check with the Bright Angel Transportation Desk for next day cancellations.

Mule rides are easier to book

While an overnight at Phantom Ranch on the floor of the Grand Canyon is commonly known as one of the high-demand accommodations in any national park, visitors who are persistent and flexible ­ especially those who want the experience of riding a  mule ­ can often get reservations without planning far in advance. The seven-hour mule rides to Plateau Point returning the same day are also more often available than in the past.

Xanterra South Rim LLC, operator of lodges and activities at the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park, accepts reservations 13 months in advance.

At Phantom Ranch, the two dormitories ­ one for women and one for men ­ offer 10 sets of bunk beds each, a shower and restroom. Phantom Ranch also offers 11 rustic cabins, some of which are reserved for mule riders.

Dormitory lodging is available for backpackers and typically fills up the first day of the month 13 months in advance. Cabin accommodations at Phantom Ranch, however, are included with the overnight mule trips and do not typically fill up immediately.

"The strong demand for hiker accommodations has resulted in the misconception that day trips and all Phantom Ranch lodging sell out 13 months in advance," said Nora Berry, director of transportation for Xanterra South Rim. "The hiker accommodations always go first, but overnight mule rides, which used to sell out nine to 12 months in advance now stay available much longer, especially during November through March, excluding the holiday periods. Some of the cabins hold up to 10 people, so a large group can reserve a cabin that would not be available to an individual or couple."

An overnight mule ride costs $401.16 for one person, $709.46 for two and $321.11 for each additional person including lunch, dinner, breakfast and taxes. Costs for a mule ride and two nights at Phantom Ranch are $565.70 for one person, $945.68 for two and $405.60 for each additional person including accommodations, breakfast, lunch, steak dinner on the first night and stew dinner on the second night and taxes. An all day mule ride to Plateau Point costs $148.35, including a box lunch and tax.

Mule riders must weigh less than 200 pounds, be at least 4 feet, 7 inches tall, be able to speak and understand fluent English, be in good physical condition and must not be afraid of heights or large animals. Riders cannot be pregnant.

"For many people, the Grand Canyon mule ride is the trip of a lifetime," said Berry. "But times have changed, and that trip is now more within their reach than they realize."

Mule rides can be reserved by calling toll-free 1-888-297-2757 or 1-303-297-2757. Visitors can book their rooms online and learn more about park accommodations by visiting www.grandcanyonlodges.com or by calling toll-free 1-888-297-2757 or 1-303-297-2757. More information about Grand Canyon National Park can be obtained at www.nps.gov/grca or 638-7888.


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